tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28809966765501624542024-03-20T02:53:16.023-07:00Chez CharlesI cook from scratch almost every day. In this blog I share my recipes, techniques, food sources, and thoughts about feeding my busy family.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-67689358485813602092016-02-20T09:58:00.003-08:002016-02-20T10:01:52.314-08:00Smoked Salmon Spread<br />
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For little crostini or just eating by the spoonful, this is amazing
stuff. Took 10 minutes to make. The key is to get some good smoked
salmon, of course. Enjoy!<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Smoked Salmon Spread</span><br />
Makes about 1.5 cups - Serves 4-6 as an appetizer <br />
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About 6 oz. smoked salmon, chopped and mashed with a spoon or fork<br />
2 shallots, minced<br />
1 T capers, minced<br />
3-4 fresh chives (about 1 T total), minced<br />
1 tsp fresh dill, minced<br />
1-2 T mayonnaise, to taste <br />
Juice of 1/2 lemon, to taste<br />
Splash of hazelnut or argan oil<br />
Fresh ground green or black pepper and sea salt or Kosher salt to taste<br />
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Mix all ingredients together. Balance flavors with salt, pepper and lemon as needed. Spread on toasted baguette slices, or crackers, or scoop onto a salad of mixed greens, chopped egg and a lemon vinaigrette.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-76733099403115296622014-09-07T08:28:00.000-07:002014-09-07T09:06:03.495-07:00Wilbur's Dill PicklesWilbur Wright is a great man. No, not that Wilbur Wright, the aviation pioneer. I'm talking about Wilbur Wright the nuclear engineer, outdoorsman, carpenter, and pickle maker extraordinaire. Wilbur is the grandfather of my good friend, Mason, and he is one mean pickle maker.<br />
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Every year at this time he gets the itch to make pickles. We go up to the family cabin near Grand Rapids, MN, and "put up" a few dozen quarts of cucumber pickles. We usually have a few other pickling side-shows as well, such as beets, jalapeños, northerns (pickled fish recipe coming up!) or eggs (never had a pickled egg? You're missing out!). Here is Wilbur's dill pickle recipe. It's a project, but it makes the best pickles ever!<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Wilbur's Dill Pickles</span><br />
Makes 5-6 quarts of pickles -- multiply the recipe as needed <br />
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Pickling Solution:<br />
6 c. water<br />
3 c. white vinegar<br />
1/2 c. pickling salt (aka, canning salt)<br />
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For the Pickles:<br />
A bushel of smallish cucumbers (look for 3-4", very fresh, firm cucumbers)<br />
6-12 heads of fresh dill<br />
20-25 cloves of garlic, peeled, the ends trimmed off<br />
5-6 T pickling spice (typically coriander seed, dill seed, bay leaf, mustard seed and other spices)<br />
Optionally: red pepper flakes, peppercorns, whole cloves<br />
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Additional Materials:<br />
6 quart-sized jars, with rings and lids to fit. Jars and rings can be re-used, but lids must be new. You'll also need 2 large stockpots and two small saucepans.<br />
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<b>Day 1 - Prep</b><br />
Shop for your cucumbers, dill and garlic. A farmer's market is almost always the best source. A note on dill: you want dill that has gone to seed and has nice heads at the top. If on dill weed is available -- dill with soft tendrils and no seeds, it will work, but you should add an additional 1/4 tsp of dill seed to each jar during pickling.<br />
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Identify a workspace and lay out all required materials. Lay a clean towel over the area that will be used to stage the finished pickles. Carefully wash the pickling jars with soap and warm water; rinse and dry thoroughly, and place open side down on the workspace towel.<br />
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<b>Day 2 - Pickling</b><br />
Prepare a batch of the pickling solution by mixing the water, vinegar and pickling salt in a large stockpot and heating to near boiling. Fill a second large stockpot with water only, and bring it to a boil. In the mean time, rinse all of the cucumbers to remove any sand or dirt. Scrub off any stubborn dirt with a soft brush. Drain and place in a large bowl. Prep all of the garlic. Check over the dill, removing any brown or blackened bits, rinsing as needed, but taking care not to wash away the dill seed. Trim the heads from the stems.<br />
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Heat some water in a small sauce pan to boiling, and place the rings and lids in it to sterilize them and soften the rubber seal on the lids. Separate the lids from each other before placing them in the hot water, or they'll be really hard to get apart -- and hot!<br />
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Now you're ready to make pickles! Get your helpers and start by packing the jars with cucumbers (nothing else goes in yet). Place the jars in a sink or on a large sheet pan, and fill each with the boiling water from the water-only stockpot (ladle it in, or use a small saucepan as a ladle). Allow the cucumbers to blanch and heat through for 12-15 minutes.<br />
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Working quickly, pour off the hot water, and fill jars with remaining ingredients: 3-5 garlic cloves, 1-2 heads of dill, 1 T of pickling spice, plus 1/4 tsp of each of the additional spices, as desired. Now fill each jar with the pickling solution (water, vinegar and salt), leaving about 1/2" of airspace at the top. Make sure the rim of each jar is free of debris so the lids will seal. Next, drain the lids and rings (they'll be hot!), and carefully put a lid and ring on each jar. Using a towel or hot pads, tighten each ring firmly, turn the jars upside down, and arrange on the towel on your workspace. Cover the jars with a thick towel to keep them warm. Allow to cool for several hours.<br />
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Check each jar to make sure the lids have popped in, indicating a good seal. You may actually hear them popping as they cool! Store the jars upright at room temperature, or in a cool basement, for at least 10 days, but they are best after a month or more. They will keep, unopened for a year or more. Enjoy!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-19117443849838046922014-06-01T10:06:00.001-07:002014-06-01T10:06:42.615-07:00Pecan PiePecan pie is a deeply personal -- and for those of us who love it, nearly religious -- expression of baking. Whether it evokes memories of your grandma, a favorite Thanksgiving, or a hole-in-the-wall on Bourbon Street (which is the case for me), the deep nutty goodness of pecan pie seems capable of evoking deep emotions like few other desserts. Unless you just don't like pecan pie, in which case I'm very sorry for you.<br />
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I was recently asked for my own pecan pie recipe, and decided to share it here. Every recipe I've ever seen has the same few basic ingredients: corn syrup, sugar, eggs, butter, pecans. The differences come in nuances -- add bourbon or rum? Any brown sugar? Light or dark corn syrup? Whole pecans or chopped? The variation below is my favorite so far in my experimentations...yet it doesn't quite live up to my memory of the slice I had in that little joint on Bourbon Street...<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Pecan Pie</span><br />
1 prepared pie crust (use your favorite recipe)<br />
1 egg + 1 tsp water, whisked (for brushing the crust)<br />
2 c. pecan halves<br />
3 large eggs<br />
3/4 c. white sugar<br />
1/4 c. brown sugar (I like dark brown)<br />
1 c. light corn syrup<br />
5 T. unsalted butter, melted<br />
1/2 tsp. vanilla<br />
2 T. bourbon or whiskey (use good stuff)<br />
3/4 tsp. Kosher salt<br />
<br />Pre-heat the oven to 375. Arrange the pecans on a baking sheet in a single layer. Roast for about 5-8 minutes, rotating and jiggling the baking sheet partway through. Do not let them burn. Remove the sheet from the oven and allow to cool until able to touch.<br />
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In the mean time, prepare the pie shell and line a glass pie pan, fluting the edges just above the rim of the pan. Brush lightly all over with the egg mixture.<br />
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Whisk together all remaining ingredients in a mixing bowl, starting with the eggs and sugar, then adding the rest.<br />
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Break the pecans into pieces and scatter on the bottom of the pie shell. Pour the egg-sugar mixture over the pecans.<br />
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Baking time will vary based on your oven and the initial temperature of the ingredients -- may range from 35 or 40 minutes up to an hour. Test by gently nudging the pan. When it's done, the edges will be firm and the center will be mostly set, but slightly jiggly like gelatin. Rotate the pan during cooking as needed to ensure even baking.<br />
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Allow to cool until warm but not hot before serving. If completely cooled, warm slightly before serving. You can serve with ice cream or whipped cream, but I like it plain.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-62877269777506658492014-06-01T08:56:00.002-07:002014-06-01T08:56:26.048-07:00Passion Fruit NA PunchIt's summertime! This refreshing punch is a crowd pleaser. It's tangy and refreshing and slightly exotic. You can also "punch" it up a notch by adding a shot of whiskey and a shot of orange liqueur such as Triple Sec, Gran Marnier or Countreau to each glass before pouring in the punch.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Passion Fruit Punch</span><br />
(makes about 2-1/2 liters)<br />
1 liter club soda (chilled)<br />
1 liter passion fruit juice (I use Ceres brand)<br />
12 oz. frozen orange juice<br />
1 c. ginger syrup (see below)<br />
<br />Combine all ingredients in a large pitcher. Serve over ice.<br />
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For the ginger syrup: combine 3/4 cup sugar, 3/4 cup water and 1/2 cup rough-chopped ginger in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer for about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Strain through a fine mesh strainer into a storage container, or directly into the punch. Press excess liquid out of the ginger. Makes about 1 cup. I usually make about 3 cups at a time. It will keep, refrigerated, for a couple weeks.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-47496176580846824512014-05-18T09:20:00.000-07:002014-05-18T09:20:48.195-07:00Guiltless French Onion DipIs there anything as delicious and decadent as good French onion dip? You can eat it with anything -- potato chips, of course (Ruffles are my favorite), but pretzels and veggies are great, too. Top a baked potato with it. Dollop it onto scrambled eggs or an omelet. spread it inside a grilled cheese, or on a cold sandwich with mâche, radish and smoked turkey. The possibilities are endless.<br />
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If only it didn't have 3g of fat and 31 calories in every tablespoon! Well, now it doesn't. I've been using fat-free Greek yogurt as a substitute for sour cream in lots of dishes, and recently created this one. It's a winner, and very simple. Greek yogurt has no fat and only 65 calories per half cup, so snack away!<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">French Onion Dip</span><br />
(makes about 1-1/4 cups)<br />
1 c. non-fat Greek yogurt<br />
1 large sweet yellow onion, thinly sliced<br />
dash of olive or grapeseed oil<br />
1 tsp. Worchestershire Sauce<br />
salt to taste (about 1/2 tsp)<br />
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Put the oil, onion and about 1/4 tsp salt in a large non-stick or cast iron skillet over medium heat. Stirring very frequently with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula, cook until the onions are softening and starting to brown. Reduce heat to medium-low and continue to caramelize, stirring often. Use the moisture in the onions to scape and remove browned juices and bits that stick to the pan -- this is flavor! Keep caramelizing until the onion is deep brown but not black. Be very careful not to scorch them, or the dip will taste bitter. But also don't stop too early -- all of the flavor comes from the caramelization. This process will take about 15 minutes or more. Remove from heat and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes.<br />
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Put the yogurt into a food processor with the Worchestershire sauce and onions and puree thoroughly. There should be almost no visible pieces of onion left...this will take a couple minutes. Periodically stop processing, remove the lid and scrape away unblended onion and yogurt. Taste for saltiness and add more salt as needed. Transfer to a serving dish, or to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to a week.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-91721880591036490102013-03-17T17:23:00.002-07:002013-03-17T17:23:46.774-07:00Poached Shrimp Louisiana Style<br />
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Shrimp poached in olive oil is one of my favorite things. A bunch of my guy friends are in New Orleans this weekend, and rather than mope about not being with them, I decided to get a little taste of the south at home here in Minneapolis. I hope you enjoy this as much as I did! It looks like there's a lot to this recipe, but I did the whole thing in 30 minutes...everything cooks quickly.<br />
<br /><b>Poached Shrimp Louisiana Style</b><br />(Serves 2)<br />10 medium-large shrimp<br />
1 ripe roma tomato<br />
1 jalepeno<br />
3 small or 2 medium tomatillos<br />
2 cloves garlic, minced<br />
1 shallot, minced<br />
1T sherry vinegar<br />
Fresh thyme, leaves from about 4 sprigs <br />
Sugar (to taste, about 1 tsp)<br />
12-15 fresh okra <br />
1/4 c. corn meal<br />
1/2 tsp chili powder (make your own - look for the technique elsewhere in my blog)<br />
1/4 tsp onion powder<br />
Cayenne pepper <br />Black pepper<br />
Salt<br />
Olive oil for poaching and sauteing - a cup or a bit more<br />
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Prep the sauce: fire up the grill, lightly oil the jalapeno and tomato, and char both. Make sure the chili pepper is black all over. Place both in a bowl and lightly cover. In the mean time, husk and rinse the tomatillos, place in boiling, salted water, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until they are just starting to fall apart. Gently remove with a slotted spoon and place in the bowl with the tomato and jalapeno. When the pepper has cooled enough to touch, remove the skin, cut off the stem, cut in half and remove and discard the seeds. Mince the flesh and return to the bowl. Remove the tomato skin and discard. By hand, break up the tomatillos and the tomato into small pieces.<br />
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Place the shallot and garlic in a small saute or sauce pan with a little olive oil and cook over medium low until just starting to brown. Add the tomato-tomatillo-jalapeno mixture and a little salt, plus some sugar and the vinegar. Add the thyme leaves. Cook until the sauce is starting to thicken, stirring occasionally. Taste for balance of flavors. Think about the balance of acid, sweet and salt in ketchup - you want that character, only less salt and sugar - the tomatillo and tomato flavors should still come through. At this point, also add cayenne pepper to taste. Make it as hot or mild as you like. Start with a little if you're not sure!<br />
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Meanwhile, poach the shrimps. Heat enough olive oil to cover the shrimps in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it's hot, add the shrimps and reduce the heat to medium-low. You are not frying the shrimp, you're poaching...keep the oil temp low enough to prevent bubbling/frying. They will cook slowly and gently - should take about 8 minutes.<br />
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Meanwhile, prep and cook the Okra. Combine the corn meal, chili powder, onion powder, and some salt (about 1/3 tsp) and pepper (generous fresh grind) in a medium bowl. Stir together. Cut the stems off of the okra, then cut into 1/4" pieces. The slimy insides will bind with the corn meal, so toss them in as you're cutting. Stir to coat; let rest for a minute; stir to coat again; repeat a few times.<br />
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Heat about 3T of olive oil in a small saute pan over medium heat. Using a slotted spoon, remove the okra from the bowl and add to the pan, increasing the heat to medium-high. Fry, turning frequently, until golden brown on all sides. Remove to a warm bowl with the slotted spoon. Time this so you can plate shortly after.<br />
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To serve: place half the sauce on each of two warm plates and spread it out. Place the shrimp on top (don't drain the shrimps - remove them from the oil with tongs without shaking off excess oil...you want that flavor!), then sprinkle on the okra. Serve immediately.<br />
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by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-23657838078349676162012-10-07T10:07:00.001-07:002012-10-07T10:07:51.462-07:00Pistachio Ice CreamI recently wanted to make Neapolitan ice cream for an Italian-themed party. Neapolitan is most often found as layered chocolate, vanilla and strawberry ice cream, but I had a vague recollection of having "fancy" Neapolitan at a restaurant when I was little, and it being made of chocolate, cherry and pistachio. I have no idea if this is real or concocted in my brain. Nonetheless, I set out to make these three flavors. I ran out of time to do the more involved work of actually layering the ice creams, so I made them in separate batches and left it to the diners to take a scoop of each. While all three came out pretty well, the pistachio was my favorite. I love pistachio ice cream, and this was as delicious as any I've had before. The secret is careful roasting of the pistachios to draw out their flavor. As with all ice creams, you will also notice the difference with free-range eggs and organic milk and cream. Enjoy!<br />
<br /><b>Pistachio Ice Cream</b><br />(makes about 1 quart)<br />
1 cup shelled, raw pistachios<br />
1 cup granulated sugar<br />
1-1/2 cups heavy cream<br />
1-1/2 cups whole milk<br />
4 egg yolks<br />
1/2 tsp almond extract<br />
1/4 tsp salt<br /><br />
Preheat the oven to 200 degrees, with convection (if available). Spread the pistachios in a single layer on a cookie sheet. Roast the pistachios until just starting to brown - about 30 minutes. Do not let them over-brown or they will become bitter. Let cool completely.<br />
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When the pistachios are cool, place about 2/3rds of them in a food processor with all of the sugar and pulse repeatedly until they are very finely chopped. Do not over-process, or they will turn to butter. For the last 3 or 4 pulses, add the remaining pistachios (these will stay in larger pieces to give some crunch to the ice cream). Set aside.<br />
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In a 2-quart saucepan heat the milk and cream over medium heat until scalded but not boiling, stirring frequently. In the mean time, whisk the egg yolks, almond extract and salt until slightly frothy. When the cream mixture is hot, remove from heat and ladle out about a cup, very slowly drizzling it into the egg yolk mixture while whisking continuously (so as not to cook the yolks). Slowly pour this yolk mixture into the pan with the cream while stirring constantly. Add the pistachio-sugar mixture. Return to the burner and cook until a custard forms. Do not boil! The custard is ready when it thickens slightly and it coats the back of a spoon.<br />
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Remove the custard from stove and allow it to cool somewhat - so that the pan is warm but not hot to the touch. Stir regularly to avoid allowing a film to form. Either leave the mixture in the pan or transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate until very cold - preferably overnight. Transfer to the basin of your ice cream maker and follow its instructions to freeze the ice cream to a thick consistency. Transfer to a plastic storage container and freeze until firm in your freezer. It will retain its flavor for several weeks if kept frozen...but it's unlikely you will need to worry about that!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-73819366305952494892012-07-27T08:12:00.001-07:002012-07-27T08:12:27.785-07:00Flaming Cherry Tomato SalsaI've made a series of salsas for my friend, Mason. This is the most recent, and the most incendiary. Go crazy...turn it up to 11!<br />
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Flaming Cherry Tomato Salsa</span>
<br />(makes about a cup and a half)<br />
1 cup sweet cherry tomatoes (I use "grape" tomatoes), chopped fine <br />
1 jalepeno, roasted until well-browned, minced
<br />1-3 habaneros, roasted, stemmed and minced - DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE HANDS!<br />
2 cloves garlic, smashed and minced, or grated<br />1 bunch of scallions, chopped 1-1/2" into the green part<br />
1/2 medium-sized red onion, minced <br />
1/4-1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves<br />2 T white vinegar (not apple cider vinegar!)<br />
1/2 tsp (scant) fresh ground black pepper (aka, a lot of pepper!)
<br />Kosher salt to taste - should be pleasantly salty
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<br />Rub the habaneros with a little oil and roast on the grill until
well-charred all over. Mince finely - be very careful - the oil will burn your skin, and any sensitive areas you touch! Cut the root end off of the scallions, then split each one
lengthwise with your knife, then mince. Mix all ingredients in a bowl
and season to taste - about 1/3 to 1/2 tsp Kosher salt - you want it
pleasantly salty. This salsa can go from pretty hot to incendiary, depending on the number of habaneros. But it's so delicious, people will eat through the pain!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-36086927120540453992011-08-22T18:54:00.000-07:002011-08-22T19:07:21.273-07:00Roasted Chili RelishYes, I'm in a rut, but some good things are coming from it, so I'm gonna go with it for a bit. This week my daughter wanted taco night before going back to college. I wanted something hot and smoky to go with my tacos, and being a hot freak, I had a few chilies in the fridge. I decided I didn't really want a salsa, though; I wanted something crunchy and hot as a condiment to my tacos, something more like a relish - though not pickled. Here's what I concocted. I would be awesome on roasted pork, but was also pretty great on ground turkey tacos (see recipe somewhere in the annals of this blog), with green blender salsa (also in this blog), tomatoes, black olives and shredded cheese. Mmmmmmm, hot, smoky and nutty!
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Roasted Chili Relish</span>
<br />(makes about a cup)
<br />2 jalepenos, roasted, stemmed and minced
<br />1 habanero, roasted, stemmed and minced - DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE HANDS!
<br />1 small clove garlic, minced
<br />1 bunch of scallions, chopped 1-1/2" into the green part
<br />Fresh lime juice, about 1/4th of a lime
<br />1 T extra virgin olive oil
<br />1/2 tsp (scant) fresh ground black pepper (aka, a lot of pepper!)
<br />Kosher salt to taste
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<br />Rub the chilies with a little oil and roast on the grill until well-charred all over. Mince finely - be very careful with the habaneros! Cut the root end off of the scallions, then split each one lengthwise with your knife, then mince. Mix all ingredients in a bowl and season to taste - about 1/3 to 1/2 tsp Kosher salt - you want it pleasantly salty. This relish will be very hot and strongly-peppery on its own, but spooned onto roasted meats or on tacos, it is fantastic!
<br />by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-82526500567702992682011-08-15T08:05:00.000-07:002011-08-15T09:48:24.452-07:00"Some Like it Hot" SalsaContinuing on my salsa theme, my latest challenge was to create a salsa meant to be served warm. This was a fun puzzle...most of the hallmarks of salsa - fresh tomatoes or other fruits, fresh chilies and onions, cilantro, that pleasing contrast of soft and crunchy, saucy and chunky textures, and principally uncooked ingredients - are all challenged by the "serve warm" requirement. It forced me to think about what is most essential in a salsa - what's at the heart of our love affair with salsas? What's the difference between a salsa and a sauce or a condiment?
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<br />First and foremost, salsas are for dipping corn chips, or accompanying Mexican or Southwestern foods. They are characterized by Mexican and Southwestern flavors - chilies, acid (lime or tomato are typical), garlic and onion. Sometimes they are very simple - tomatoes, onions, garlic, jalepenos, salt and pepper, rough chopped - and sometimes they are complex - with multiple aromatics, including cilantro, oregano, cumin, annato, cinnamon, cloves, etc., plus the many, many varieties of fresh, dried and smoked chilies.
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<br />Having said all that, salsas are, of course, sauces: salsa is the Spanish word for sauce. And they are also condiments: we use them to enhance foods in much the same way we use ketchup, or chutney, or sauer kraut, or chow-chows. So a salsa is really defined by its culinary context - the flavors it contains, and the food we're eating it with.
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<br />So here's a hot salsa - yes, spicy hot, but more importantly, temperature hot. It's pretty addicting. I love it served in a warm, shallow bowl, sprinkled with queso fresco, and eaten with good quality tortilla chips.
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<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">"Some Like it Hot" Salsa</span>
<br />(makes about two cups)
<br />1 T canola or light olive oil
<br />2 large or 3 medium shallots, chopped
<br />3-4 cloves of garlic, chopped
<br />1-2 fresh habanero peppers, stemmed and rough-chopped - DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE HANDS!
<br />3 dried ancho chilies, stemmed, seeded and torn into pieces
<br />4 roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and rough chopped
<br />2 pinches dried oregano
<br />1/2 tsp cumin
<br />Fresh ground pepper - about 1/3 tsp
<br />Kosher salt to taste
<br />
<br />Saute shallots, garlic and habaneros in oil over med-low heat until well-softened and just starting to brown. Add remaining ingredients, plus a cup or more of water. Add some salt at this point - about a 1/2 tsp - but you'll add more later. Increase heat to medium and bring to a low boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer until about half of the liquid has evaporated, and the tomatoes and anchos are well-softened, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to rest until cool enough to touch.
<br />
<br />Pour everything into a blender and puree until very smooth. If needed, add a bit more water (or chicken or veggie stock) to make it loose enough to blend well. It should be just a bit looser than the consistency of ketchup. Taste, and adjust salt at this point. Using a spatula, scrape into a storage container and refrigerate for 1-3 days allowing the flavors to develop.
<br />
<br />To serve, pour into a large shallow bowl and warm in a 250-degree oven until hot - about 10 minutes. Remove from oven, sprinkle with queso fresco, and serve with fresh or high-quality corn tortilla chips and Mexican beer or margaritas. Garnish with sliced radishes if you want.
<br />by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-37596635887582428282011-07-04T07:06:00.000-07:002011-07-04T07:24:39.527-07:00Nectarine SalsaI appear to be in a salsa rut, but it is high summer after all, and this is soooooo yummy. It's quick, and only has a little kick of heat. This would be great on tacos or grilled meats or fish of all varieties. Or just eat it with chips.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Nectarine Salsa</span><br />(makes about a cup and a half)<br />2 nectarines, skinned and diced small (see notes below)<br />1 red pepper, roasted, seeded and diced small (see notes below)<br />1-2 jalapenos, all seeds removed, then minced finely<br />3 scallions, minced<br />Juice of 1/2 lime<br />1 large or 2 small cloves garlic, minced<br />2 T minced fresh cilantro<br />Kosher salt to taste<br /><br />For this recipe, I like semi-firm nectarines - not fully ripened, but not hard and woody. At the store, feel them for just a slight amount of give, and smell them - they should have a bright nectarine smell. If they don't have a smell, they're not ripe!<br /><br />I peel nectarines by first cutting away chunks of the flesh from the pit, using a paring knife. Cut as close to the pit as you can, feeling your way with the knife as you go. Next, lay the slices skin-side down on a cutting board, and working carefully so you don't cut yourself, cut with the paring knife parallel to the board, removing just a thin layer of the skin and as little flesh as possible. They are round, so you'll have to do this from a few different angles. Cut the skinned nectarines into small dice - about 1/8th inch.<br /><br />Roasting red peppers is magical and easy. Rub the pepper with a little oil. Over a gas burner or grill, char it black all over. You can do this under the broiler as well. Make sure it's black - it won't burn the flesh. Important: put the pepper in a bowl and cover it with a plate or some foil and let it sit for 10 minutes. This will steam and loosen the skin. Remove the pepper to a cutting board, cut off the stem end (be careful - it will still be hot!), pull out all the seeds and pith, and remove all of the charred skin (most of it will flake or rub off...you can use a paring knife to scrape loose any stubborn bits). That's it!<br /><br />Mince scallions by making a horizontal slice along the length of the scallion starting at the green part and going through the white part. Then cut into thin slices up to the point where you started the lengthwise cut.<br /><br />Tip on selecting limes: the juiciest ones have smooth, shiny skin. The bumpy ones are woodier and less juicy. If your half lime doesn't yield much juice, use a whole lime.<br /><br />Mix all ingredients. Season - use enough salt so you can just taste it, but it's still sweet. You may need to double this recipe - it goes fast!!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-63622411674332724132011-06-30T20:52:00.000-07:002011-06-30T21:13:33.806-07:00Roasted Corn and Habanero SalsaI'm on a crazy-hot salsa kick. My business partner, Mason, and I are always complaining that even at restaurants with supposedly really hot food, we can't get really hot food. Our latest pet peeve is Mexican restaurants that don't have a fresh habanero in the whole joint. Really? Granted, most folks aren't eating food that hot, but isn't there someone back in the kitchen roasting and eating them whole and cursing the mayonnaise-palated gringos in the dining room?<br /><br />So, I may try a few more of these incendiary concoctions. This one would be great on fish tacos or with roasted pork of any variety, especially carnitas with soft corn tortillas. Keep plenty of cervezas at hand to put out the fire!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Roasted Corn and Habanero Salsa</span><br />(makes about a cup)<br />1 ear of corn in the husk<br />1-4 habaneros, depending on level of idiocy<br />3 scallions, finely sliced<br />3 fresh tomatillos<br />Juice of 1/2 lime<br />1 clove garlic, minced<br />1/2 tsp high-quality ancho chili powder<br />1/4 tsp (or to taste) freshly-ground black pepper<br />Kosher salt to taste<br /><br />Start the grill. Remove the paper husks from the tomatillos, rinse, and boil in salted water for 4-6 minutes, until opaque and beginning to fall apart. Drain. Rub the habaneros in a little oil for grilling. Remove the silk from the end of the corn, but leave the husks on. Put the peppers and corn on the grill, turning regularly, until the peppers are lightly browned all over, and the corn husks are well-darkened on all sides. Remove from heat to cool for a bit. Carefully husk the corn (it's hot!!). If the kernels are not lightly browned in places, return the denuded corn to the grill, turning frequently and watching carefully, to lightly brown it.<br /><br />While the grilled items are cooling, put the tomatillos in a medium bowl and break into mush with your hands, discarding any skin that won't break apart easily. Add the scallions, garlic and lime juice. Cut the corn from the cob, break apart the kernels, and add to the bowl. VERY CAREFULLY remove the stems from the habanero peppers and mince them finely with a chef's knife. Do not touch them with your bare hands! Us a spoon or spatula with the knife to get the minced peppers into the bowl. Rinse everything well!<br /><br />Add the remaining ingredients, mix well, and test for salt. It should have a pleasant sweet-sour-salty-HOT flavor. This salsa will keep for a day or two, and will be best a few hours after making it.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-83629562306206723492011-04-24T11:05:00.000-07:002011-04-24T11:21:51.775-07:00Turkey Breakfast SausageSometimes I worry about our ever-growing distance from making our own food. Paradoxically, while the availability of artisanal, sustainable and small-batch foodstuffs is exploding, it seems we make our own less and less. Who do you know that makes their own fruit preserves? Cures their own meats? Bakes their own bread? A few of us, but not as many as our grandparents' generation, to be sure.<br /><br />So here's a simple step back into homemade goodness. Store-bought sausages are typically laden with nitrites and other preservatives. You can make a simple, delicious, and healthy breakfast sausage in minutes with ground turkey that is leaner and tastier than store-bought varieties. I whipped this up for Easter brunch while the waffle maker was steaming away one-at-a-time on the waffles.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Turkey Breakfast Sausage</span><br />(makes about a dozen patties)<br />1 lb. ground turkey (I use Jenny-O 93/7, which is 7% fat)<br />1 T brown sugar<br />1/2 tsp dried rosemary<br />1/2 tsp dried thyme<br />1/2 tsp rubbed sage (a bit more if it's very fluffy)<br />1/2 tsp dried onion flakes (or 1/4 tsp onion powder - no salt)<br />1/4-1/2 tsp red pepper flakes (depending on heat desired)<br />1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg (or ground nutmeg)<br />1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper<br />Kosher salt to taste - 2 tsp or more<br /><br />Put all the dried spices (except salt and sugar) into a small mortar and pestle (or other grinding/crushing tool) and grind to a fine powder. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Now that critical step, tasting for salt. I have no issues tasting a bit of raw meat, but if you do, pinch off a bit and fry it up. If tasting raw, remember that the sausage will reduce in volume by about 1/3, so a moderately salty raw mix will be quite salty when cooked. I personally like my sausages salty, so I season until pleasantly salty raw, which will be bordering on the edge of too salty when cooked. Mmmmmm, salty!<br /><br />Pour a little olive oil in a large cast iron or non-stick skillet and heat over a medium burner. Form the sausage into little patties and cook until brown on both sides. Deeeelish!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-15728386776400877852011-04-04T17:56:00.000-07:002011-04-04T18:06:41.955-07:00Dragon SalsaI've been craving something very, very hot for about 3 weeks. I've had several meals jacked up with hot sauces and hot ingredients, but nothing has rung my bell. When I was planning to make tacos for dinner tonight, I decided to unleash the nukes. This is dangerously hot, so beware! I ate one whole batch myself...which I will regret in the morning.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Dragon Salsa</span><br />(makes about 1 cup)<br />1 fresh habanero, lightly oiled and grilled until roasty-brown on all sides<br />2 fresh jalepenos, lightly oiled and grilled until blackened on all sides<br />Juice of 1/4 fresh lime<br />1/4 onion, diced<br />1 large or 2 small cloves of garlic, minced<br />1 tomato, diced<br />3 T chopped fresh cilantro<br />Salt and freshly-cracked black pepper<br /><br />While the chilies are roasting, chop and mix all remaining ingredients. Allow the chilies to rest on a cutting board after grilling, to cool them down. Cut off and discard the stems, and mince the peppers, including seeds and skins. Add to remaining ingredients and mix well. Adjust salt as needed.<br /><br />BE CAREFUL not to touch the chilies with your bare hands - especially the habanero. It will burn your skin, and if you touch your eyes, nose, or other sensitive parts, they will be burned. Use the knife and a spatula or other utensil to handle the peppers during mincing and placing them into the salsa.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-14806833655515820672010-09-06T19:47:00.000-07:002010-09-06T20:15:53.782-07:00Habanero Hot SauceAhhhh, chicken wings! In my April 20, 2009 posting I gave you a recipe that is still my favorite. These wings are falling-off-the-bone tender, and you'll want to drink the sauce (after it's cooked).<br /><br />What I just invented to go with them is a Habanero hot sauce that is wicked-hot, and perfectly compliments the wings. I suspect it would be pretty good with pulled pork as well. It bites us, it burns us, yessss!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Habanero Hot Sauce</span><br />(makes about 1 cup)<br />2 fresh habaneros, lightly oiled and grilled until roasty-brown on all sides, stems removed<br />Juice of one fresh lime<br />2 T apricot preserves<br />2 T soy sauce<br />1/3 c. fresh orange juice<br />2-3 T brown sugar<br />3 large garlic cloves, cut into chunks<br />1 T corn starch<br />Salt and more sugar to taste - after cooked<br /><br />Place all ingredients in blender. Cover tightly - the habaneros are dangerously hot and splashing of this liquid will not be good for the eyes! Pour into a small sauce pan and heat gently until boiling, stirring regularly. Remove from heat. Check salt and sugar levels and adjust as needed. Cool. Transfer to a squeeze bottle or other container enabling easy control of dispensing.<br /><br />This sauce is very, very hot. However, drizzling it on the wings, or on sloppy joes or pulled pork, dilutes it enough that the heat is tolerable, and the flavors are delicious!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-39976196265919438302010-05-30T11:49:00.000-07:002010-05-30T12:06:30.059-07:00Rhubarb ChutneyI haven't updated this blog for a while, but my experiment with rhubarb chutney turned out so well, I was inspired to share it. Perfect for spring as the young rhubarb is ready. Serve it with grilled meat or poultry. We're having it with Jerk Chicken tomorrow. It think it would also be very, very happy with a pork chop salted, then marinated in olive oil and fresh rosemary, then grilled to medium.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Rhubarb Chutney</span><br />(makes about 1.5 cups)<br />1 T grapeseed oil or other flavorless oil<br />2 cloves of garlic, minced<br />1 small shallot, minced<br />1 c. or a little more rhubarb, cut into 1/2" chunks<br />1/4 c. currants or tiny raisins (so-called "zante currants")<br />1/4 c. white vinegar<br />Sugar to taste, about 1/4 c.<br />1/4 tsp. salt<br />1/8 tsp. ground black pepper<br /><br />Spice Mixture:<br />1/8 tsp. ground tumeric<br />1/8 tsp. grated nutmeg<br />1/8 tsp. cinnamon<br />2 whole cloves<br />1 small dried hot chile<br />1/2 tsp. while coriander seeds<br /><br />Sweat the shallots and garlic in the oil over medium-low heat until soft and just starting to brown at the edges. Add rhubarb, currants, and vinegar. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce the heat to low.<br /><br />In the mean time, combine all components of the spice mixture in a spice shaker (I like Jamie Oliver's "Flavor Shaker") or in a mortar and pulverize. Add to the rhubarb mixture, along with the salt, pepper, and half of the sugar. Stir and taste. It should be a bit sweet, but not cloyingly so. I like this chutney to retain the tartness of the rhubarb. Add more sugar until the right balance is achieved.<br /><br />Cover and cook until the rhubarb has fallen apart, just a few minutes more. Stir well, and transfer to small bowl for serving. Allow to cool to room temperature. If refrigerating, allow to warm up to room temperature to serve. The flavors will be best after one hour or so.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-35537624603561196412010-02-02T10:12:00.000-08:002010-02-02T10:19:47.785-08:00Spinach and Grapefruit SaladI create this salad when my wife suggested we use up our grapefruit on a salad. The pecans are from a boutique in Minneapolis called Extra Dough (<a href="http://www.extradough.net">www.extradough.net</a>) - they don't list them on the website, but call them or stop in to get them. You could substitute plain roasted pecans, but they won't be as good :-)<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Spinach and Grapefruit Salad</span><br />(Serves 4)<br /><br />Baby spinach - about 12 oz.<br />1/4 C. "sweet and smoky" pecans<br />1/4 small red onion, peeled, trimmed and cut into ribbons<br />1 large red grapefruit<br /><br />Vinaigrette:<br />2T grapefruit juice (from the grapefruit, after sectioning it)<br />2 T champaign vinegar (or white wine vinegar)<br />1/3 C. olive oil - use a lighter flavored oil for this recipe<br />small clove garlic, minced<br />1/2 tsp. sugar<br />pinch of white pepper<br />pinch of black pepper<br />1/4 tsp finely-minced fresh rosemary (about 6 or 7 leaves)<br />Salt to taste (make sure it's salty enough)<br /><br />Mix the vinegar and all other ingredients except the grapefruit juice and the olive oil in a medium bowl and let sit.<br /><br />With a sharp knife, trim all of the rind off of the grapefruit. Hold the grapefruit in your left hand, and with the right, cut out the wedges by cutting right next to the membranes dividing the sections. Slide them onto a plate as you cut them free. Don't cut all the way to the core - leave the seeds and core connected. When you've cut all the segments free, squeeze what's left of the grapefruit over a bowl and reserve the juice. Add 2 T of the juice to the vinaigrette and drink the rest - it's yummy!<br /><br />Whisk the olive oil into the vinegar-grapefruit juice mixture, starting with a very fine stream of oil and whisking vigorously to develop an emulsion. Taste and adjust seasoning.<br /><br />Assemble the salads: arrange spinach on a plate, top with the grapefruit wedges, onion ribbons, and pecans. Spoon on the dressing. If desired, finish with a light sprinkling of sea salt crystals.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-81643617542146188862009-08-21T20:08:00.000-07:002009-08-21T21:41:25.864-07:00Turkey & Mushroom PateI love pates, rich ones with foie gras and pistachios and truffles and pheasant and hare - well, maybe not all together. I started making pates a few years ago, and it was hard to get started. There aren't many cookbooks who even address the subject anymore...I guess they're too intimidating, and in some cases, the ingredients a bit scary to most people.<br /><br />My breakthrough came with Julia Child and Jacques Pepin's cookbook <span style="font-style: italic;">Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home</span> (Knopf, 1999). They have a whole chapter on making country-style pate, with strips of veal, pork, ham, chicken livers, and a forcemeat (the ground up stuff) made of pork. I learned to make the whole thing from scratch, including grinding the pork myself to get the right texture and quantity of fat. It's a long process - it takes over a week to make, because of marinating times before you bake it, and a couple days for the flavors to develop after it's baked. It's a fabulous recipe.<br /><br />Since conquering that recipe, I've branched out. My friend Nick, a hunter, gave me two pheasant last fall. They promptly became the foundation of my annual holiday pate. I found I had mastered enough of the basics that I could adjust flavors and ingredients to match the delicate flavor of the pheasant. For example, I added juniper berries - a classic pairing with pheasant. It came out beautifully.<br /><br />I think it's sad more people don't make pates...they're fun, a bit adventurous, and delicious. So, when recently we had some friends over for appetizers, I decided to make a simple pate of ground turkey and forest mushrooms - start to finish in one day - served slightly chilled with toasted bread, olives, shaved parmesiano, and a bit of simple red sauce - not my secret red sauce, so I'll give you the recipe :-). It was yummy.<br /><br />And here's the real deal on pate: it's just fancy meatloaf, as you'll see from this recipe. So don't be afraid - enter the world of pates! If you're really serious, start with Julia and Jacques' lovely book. If you just want to dabble, try this recipe, then play around with the flavors and ingredients.<br /><br />Buon appetito!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Turkey & Mushroom Pate</span><br />(Serves 8 or more)<br />1 package of dried forest mushrooms<br />1 lb. ground turkey, not the super-lean (I buy Jenny-O 7% fat)<br />1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil<br />4 cloves garlic, minced<br />1 shallot, minced<br />1 T corn starch<br />2 eggs, beaten<br />1/2 c. unseasoned bread crumbs<br />1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper<br />1/4 tsp. dried oregano<br />salt<br />freshly ground black pepper<br /><br />For this recipe, results will be best if you have a terrine mold with hinged sides (look <a href="http://www.bakedeco.com/detail.asp?id=7426&catid=570">here</a> for an example...I bought mine at Kitchen Window at Hennepin & Lake in Minneapolis). If not, you can use a small loaf pan. In this case, I would recommend lining the bottom with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit.<br /><br />Re-hydrate the mushrooms by placing them in a small bowl and adding 1/2 cup of hot water. Push the mushrooms down into the water. Let them soak for 30 minutes, turning them over a few times to make sure all are hydrated. Remove the mushrooms from the bowl, squeezing the excess liquid out of them with your hand, taking care to capture the liquid in the bowl. Reserve the soaking liquid.<br /><br />Meanwhile, saute the shallot and half of the garlic in the olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat until soft. Do not allow to brown. Using a very fine-meshed strainer, strain the mushroom soaking liquid into the skillet with the shallots and mushrooms (there will be some sand and dirt in the water from the mushrooms). Slowly reduce the liquid until it is nearly all evaporated, stirring occasionally, and loosening the brown glaze from the sides of the skillet with a spoon or spatula.<br /><br />While this is going on, mince the mushrooms. First, you need to trim them. Remove any slimy or unpleasantly soft pieces (porcini do not take well to dehydration-rehydration, for instance, and tend to look like gray goo). Also, if any of the mushroom stems are woody and tough, trim them off. Cut large pieces into quarters. Then, using your chef's knife, mince them.<br /><br />In a large bowl, place the ground turkey. Add the mushrooms and the oil-shallot-garlic-mushroom broth mixture from the skillet. Scrape it clean with a spoon or spatula to get every bit. Mix together. Sprinkle the corn starch all over and mix again. Add all remaining ingredients including the remaining raw garlic and mix again, thoughroughly.<br /><br />Now, you need to check the salt. I taste the raw mix...I suppose one day I'll die of salmonila poisoning. If you're squeemish (and wiser than me), pinch off a little and fry it, then taste for saltiness. It should be pleasantly salty. Adjust as needed.<br /><br />Allow the mix to sit and the flavors to develop for a bit. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 275. Oil the terrine mold and press the pate mixture into it. Cover with foil and crimp all around the edges to seal. Find a glass or ceramic baking dish that the terrine will fit into. Place the terrine mold in the baking dish, and add boiling water until it comes 1/2 way up the side of the terrine. Place in the over and bake until the internal temperature reaches 160 degrees (use an instant-read digital thermometer - an essential chef's tool!).<br /><br />Remove the baking dish and terrine from the oven. It's important for the pate to be pressed while it cools. Cut a piece of heavy cardboard to fit on top of the terrine, inside the edges of the mold. Place 2 or 3 soup cans on the cardboard, and something heavy on top of the soup cans, like a bag of flour. Some balancing is required! Allow to cool for about 45 minutes.<br /><br />After 45 minutes, remove the soup cans, cardboard, foil, etc., and use a small, sharp knife to cut around the edges of the terrine. If you have a hinged pan, release the sides, and carefully pry the terrine loose from the bottom, taking care not to break it. If you used a non-hinged mold, carefully pry the terrine out of the mold and remove the parchment. Wrap in plastic wrap and place in the fridge for 2 hours or more.<br /><br />To serve, unwrap, and using a very sharp knife, cut into 1/4"-thick slices. Arrange on a serving platter with a variety of olives. Serve with sliced bread, shaved parmesian cheese, and bruschetta sauce (see below).<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Hotel Davanzati Bruschetta Sauce</span><br />This delicious sauce was served during happy hour each evening at the Hotel Davanzati in Florence. They generously share their recipe!<br /><br />1 lb. red ripe tomatoes (I used high-quality canned whole tomatoes and all of their canning liquid), chopped, with no skin and core removed<br />4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced<br />2 peperoncino (very similar to dried arbol chiles, which I used)<br />1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil<br />1 T chopped fresh parsley<br />salt to taste<br /><br />Heat the garlic in the olive oil with the peppers until the garlic is soft and not brown. Add tomatoes and cook on medium heat for about 15 minutes. Add the parsley and cook for 2 minutes longer. Salt to taste. Allow to cool (blending hot ingredients can be explosive!). Puree briefly in blender. Serve warm with sliced toasted bread.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-3623900172716207072009-08-16T14:30:00.000-07:002009-08-19T08:17:33.976-07:00Italian Apple Tart with Ice Cream and Balsamic VinegarWe just got home from a vacation in Europe in which we spent 4 days in Paris, and then nearly 2 weeks traveling from Venice to Florence to Naples & Pompeii to Positano to Rome. One of the highlights was a day trip we took from Florence into the Chianti wine country which lies between Florence and Siena. On that trip, we visited the Montagliari vinyard, a family-owned and operated business that produces primarily Chianti Classico, in addition to Grappa and balsamic vinegar.<br /><br />There's a restaurant at the vinyard, and the septegenarian matriarch of Montagliari is the chef. Her cooking was the most delicious and comforting we had in Italy. We had a glorious meal on a shaded terrace overlooking the vinyards and the long valley of the Chianti Classico denomination. Our lunch culminated with a warm apple tart topped with vanilla ice cream and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. It was pure heaven...we devoured it.<br /><br />When we got home, I was determined to reproduce it. This is my recipe...it's not identical, but it's pretty close. Ahhh, Italia!<br /><br />A note on balsamic vinegar: This queen of vinegars can range from cheap, watery and sour to syrupy, gloriously sweet-sour and complex. Skip the former...it's not worth buying. The latter form, however, is truly a revelation, and is worth its hefty price - I've paid as much as $30 or $40 for a few ounces of good balsamico. When you get the really good stuff, save it for special dishes like this, use a few drops at a time, and savor its completely unique character with meats, over heirloom tomato wedges, fruits and desserts. Even a small bottle will last a long time.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Italian Apple Tart</span><br />(Serves 8)<br />3 eggs, separated<br />1/2 c. plus 1 T caster sugar (also called superfine, or baker's sugar)<br />1/2 tsp. vanilla<br />3 T softened unsalted butter (I use Lurpak imported Danish butter for fine baking)<br />pinch of salt<br />pinch of freshly-ground nutmeg<br />1/4 c. flour<br />1/4 c. corn starch<br />1 c. apple puree (see below)<br /><br />Preheat oven to 375. Cut circles of parchment paper to fit in the bottoms of 8 6-oz. ramekins. Place the circles into each of the ramekins, and using 1T of the butter, grease the exposed face of the parchment, plus the sides of the ramekins. Arrange on a baking sheet.<br /><br />In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks, sugar and vanilla until very creamy. Whisk in the remaining 2T of soft butter. Whisk in the nutmeg. In a separate bowl with a clean whisk, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff (the tiniest bit of yolk will keep whites from stiffening). Fold into the sugar mixture. Sprinkle the flour and corn starch over the batter and fold in, working out any lumps. Fold in the apple puree.<br /><br />Fill the molds 1/2 way, and bake until just brown on the top and edges and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Rotate the pan half way through baking for evenness.<br /><br />To serve: unmold while still warm (hold the hot ramekins with a towl) onto warm plates, upside down, by running a thin knife around the sides of the ramekin, then gently prying loose. Remove parchment paper rounds. Top with a smallish scoop of premium vanilla ice cream that is slightly softened, and a drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar (about a teaspoon per serving). Dust everything and the plate around it with powdered sugar. Elegant comfort food!<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Apple Puree</span><br />1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced<br />1 Braeburn apple, peeled, cored and diced<br /><br />Place the apples and 2 T of water into a saucepan, cover tightly, and place over medium-low heat. Cook until very soft, about 25 minutes. Cool. Mash with a fork, not a food processor. It's better with a little texture, rather than baby-food smoothness.<br /><br />This is also the way I make applesauce. You can use whatever varieties of apples you like best.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-75080312304565547652009-07-18T11:18:00.000-07:002009-08-17T20:37:32.658-07:00Grilled Rib Eye SteaksI don't eat steaks very often, so when I do, I want really good ones.<br /><br />A lot is being written lately about the right way to raise beef cattle for health, sustainability, and humane treatment of the animals. If you live in the Twin Cities, and want beef you can trace back to the farm, I've found no better than Clancey's Meats & Fish in the Linden Hills neighborhood of Minneapolis (I don't believe they have a website, but see reviews and directions <a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/clanceys-meats-and-fish-minneapolis">here</a>). They are truly artisanal in every way.<br /><br />However, they're not actually my favorite butcher shop in Minneapolis. That honor (such as it is) goes to Everett's Foods & Meats on the east side of Minneapolis just off 38th & Cedar (see reviews and directions <a href="http://www.insiderpages.com/b/3716620225">here</a>). Why do I love Everett's so much? Maybe it's the 1950's nostalgic feel of the place. Maybe it's the fact that they dry-age their beef to perfection. Maybe it's their incredible house-made sausages and bratwurst and other cured meats. Maybe it's the fact that their prices are working-class-southeast friendly - I bought 2 12-oz. rib eyes there for $15 and change, total.<br /><br />Clearly, it's all of this, and one thing more: I have absolutely loved every single cut of meat of every kind I've ever bought from Everett's. For my 40th birthday I hosted a man-feast for 11 of my closest guy friends and relatives. We bought a dozen 1-lb. porterhouse steaks from Everett's for the event - the king cut of beef. They were sublime. Everett's brats and Polish are absolutely old-world in their depth of flavor. I've purchased countless steaks there, and the occasional tenderloin for special occasions. Always perfect.<br /><br />Unless you're a vegetarian, having a favorite neighborhood butcher shop is one of the great pleasures in life. I don't live in Southeast anymore, but mine is still Everett's.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Grilled Rib Eye Steaks</span><br />(serves 1 per steak)<br />10-12 oz. rib eye<br />salt<br />1 T extra virgin olive oil<br />1 medium clove of fresh garlic, peeled, the end trimmed off, and quartered<br /><br />Buy the steaks a day or two before your event. Salt both sides with a generous sprinkle of Kosher salt. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 18 hours.<br /><br />Place the olive oil and garlic in a blender or food processor and puree. Remove steak(s) from the fridge, take off the plastic wrap, and place in a sheet pan, and rub all over with the garlic/oil mixture. Allow to sit for 60-90 minutes at room temperature.<br /><br />Meanwhile heat the grill to high - preferably mesquite charcoal. I mean fiercely hot. Serious violence must be done to the steaks. When the grill is near its maximum heat and the steaks have marinated and come up to room temperature, put the steaks on the grill. Allow a good crust to form - 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the steaks and cook the other side. You can cook them as done as you like, but medium-rare is the way to eat these babies.<br /><br />Transfer hot steaks to warm plates and allow to rest for a couple minutes while you load up the plate with yummy stuff like potatoes gratin, sauteed or creamed spinach, or homemade macaroni and cheese. When you cut into the steaks, the juices should run into the other stuff on the plate. Now you're living!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-53954107947058182162009-07-17T15:02:00.000-07:002009-07-18T10:25:01.448-07:00Oysters Three WaysI love oysters. And I love to come up with creative ways to prepare them. When my friend Martin called this week saying he was in the mood for oysters and martinis, my brain went to work.<br /><br />I bought two-dozen oysters: 8 Malpeques, 8 Kumamotos, and 8 Blue Points. I wanted preparations that would bring out the natural character of each of these wonderful varieties. The recipes are below.<br /><br />A couple points on oysters. First, find a brilliant, fantastic, exceptional source. In the Twin Cities, I only trust fresh oysters from Coastal Seafood. Find the supplier in your city that gets the very freshest, and is 100% reliable. I've never been sick from a bad oyster, but I know people who have, and it's really not fun.<br /><br />Second, buy them the day you're going to eat them. See point #1.<br /><br />Third, use a stiff brush and scrub them all over under cold running water. Don't submerge them. The shell is the serving vessel, so you don't want mud, seaweed, or other unpleasantness clinging to them. Be sure to put a mesh over your drain - a lot of shell chippings and other nasty bits will come loose.<br /><br />Fourth, if you don't know already, take the time learn how to properly shuck an oyster. It's really worth doing - it's not hard once you learn, and it's a lot more fun than you'd think. Watch <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uy-rbEXFwLw">this video</a>, read <a href="http://howtoshuckanoyster.com/how-to-shuck/">this posting</a>, and find someone you know who's done it before to help you.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Malpeque Oysters Old School</span><br />(8 oysters)<br />8 dashes Tabasco Sauce<br />2 tsp. horseradish<br />1/2 lemon<br /><br />Spoon about 1/4 tsp. fresh horseradish onto each oyster. Shake on a dash of Tabasco. Squeeze the juice from the lemon over all. That's it. The Malpeques are meaty and briny. They love this traditional combination of flavors, standing up well to the boldness of these ingredients.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Kumamoto Oysters Japanese Style</span><br />(8 oysters)<br />6-8 shiso leaves (shiso is a Japanese herb that tastes vaguely like cumin), cut into tiny shreds<br />1+ tsp. wasabi paste<br />3 scallions, trimmed and minced fine - all of the white plus 1/2" into the green part<br />2-3 drops soy sauce per oyster<br /><br />Top each oyster with a bit of shiso and scallion, and 1/8 tsp. (i.e., a small amount) of wasabi paste. Dribble each with 2-3 drops of soy sauce.<br /><br />I invented this recipe for a bachelor party several years ago. The milky, creaminess of the Kumamotos loves the earthiness of the shiso. The scallion and wasabi add a little brightness. Kumamotos aren't as briny as some oysters, so the little hit of soy adds further depth, plus some salt. This is a nearly perfect way to eat raw oysters.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Blue Point Oysters Southwestern Style</span><br />(8 oysters)<br />2 T minced red onion (minced very small)<br />2 T fresh raw sweet corn cut from the cob, carefully cleaned of silk and bits of husk<br />1 tsp. minced garlic<br />2 T fresh lime juice<br />~1 tsp. chili powder (see the note in <a href="http://chezcharles.blogspot.com/2009/03/chiles-rellenos-enchiladas-homemade.html">this posting</a> for my homemade chili powder)<br />8 cilantro leaves<br /><br />I love broiled oysters. They don't really cook - just get warm. This combo had a slightly funky fragrance, but tasted fantastic.<br /><br />Combine onion, corn, garlic and lime juice in a small bowl. Stir well and let marinate for 30 minutes 0r more while you shuck the oysters.<br /><br />Heat the broiler to high. Cover a small sheet pan with foil, then pour in about 1/2 cup or more of kosher salt or rock salt. This will form a bed for the oysters preventing them from tipping and spilling their juices. Carefully place the oysters on the salt, keeping them from spilling their liquor.<br /><br />Spoon a half-teaspoon or so of the marinade onto each oyster. Sprinkle a couple pinches of chili powder over each. Broil for 1-2 minutes until just warm. The won't brown or bubble - just get a bit hot on top. Remove from oven and top each with a cilantro leaf.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Bombed Goose</span><br />Mix 2 shots Bombay Sapphire gin and 2 shots Grey Goose vodka in a martini shaker with ice. Shake (don't stir), pour into a martini glass, add 2-3 olives.<br /><br />This, for me, is the perfect martini. Exceedingly smooth, icy cold, it pairs wonderfully with oysters.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-50450061232987269332009-07-16T14:01:00.000-07:002009-07-16T14:49:19.109-07:00Thai Holy Basil Fried Rice with CalamariWe all have foods that we love dearly, and then there are foods we would make our last meal. On Top Chef this season (a show which I watch obsessively), one of the challenges near the end was to prepare for some celebrity chefs what they would desire for their last meal. Carla Hall, one of my favorite contestants, cooked for the wonderful Jacques Pepin. His requested "last meal" was squab and fresh peas. Comfort food for him. After Jacques finished the meal she had prepared for him, he said, "I think I could die happy after that." I actually cried! For me, that moment was so magical, I can't imagine having Jacques Pepin say those words about something I'd cooked...in my opinion she won the competition right there.<br /><br />So, what would my last meal be? Thai holy basil fried rice with calamari. Comfort food for me.<br /><br />I love Thai food, and grew to love this dish eating at the King and I restaurant in Minneapolis. Their version of this dish can be ordered with beef, chicken, fried tofu, or calamari. I absolutely love the latter. You can prepare this dish with any of these proteins. I challenge you to try it this way!<br /><br />You can find jasmine rice, frozen cuttlefish, fresh Thai basil, fresh Thai chilies and fish sauce at most Asian markets.<br /><br />By the way, this dish is smoking-hot, fired up by Thai chilies. You can adjust the heat in your preparation of the garlic-red pepper paste.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Thai Holy Basil Fried Rice with Calamari</span><br />(serves 2-4)<br />1-2 T. canola oil<br />8 oz. cuttlefish (bodies and tentacles), bodies cut into rings, bony cartilage removed<br />~1/4 c. garlic-red pepper paste (see below)<br />1 qt. freshly-cooked jasmine rice<br />1 bunch Thai basil, leaves pulled from stems (but not chopped)<br />fish sauce and soy sauce to taste<br /><br />Cook about a quart (finished volume) of jasmine rice. (See <a href="http://chezcharles.blogspot.com/2009/05/vietnamese-style-fish-grilled.html">this posting</a> for my technique for cooking rice.) Heat a wok over high heat. Working quickly, add the oil, cuttlefish and garlic-red pepper paste and stir-fry for 1-2 minutes to cook the fish about half-way. Add the rice and stir to mix. Stop stirring, and allow the rice to brown a bit. Scrape it loose, stir up, and repeat 2-3 more times, until there's a moderate amount of browned rice in the mix. Add the basil leaves, and pour in about 2 T of fish sauce and 1 T of soy sauce. Stir well (still over high heat). Taste for saltiness. Add more fish sauce if needed. Cook for a couple more minutes to reduce liquid, stirring every 30 seconds or so. Serve piping hot.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Garlic Red-Pepper Paste</span><br />2 T canola oil<br />1 head of garlic, separated, peeled, and each clove halved or quartered depending on size<br />1 whole red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into 1/2" dice<br />red Thai chilies to taste, stems removed, cut in half<br /><br />The heat all comes from the Thai chilies. I use about 16-18 in mine, which is intolerably hot for most people; you can use as few as 4 or 5, and as many as you dare! Be very careful working with Thai chilies - they are the second or third hottest chilies on Earth, depending on who you ask. Their oil is exceedingly hot, and will burn your eyes, nose, mouth, or other sensitive parts.<br /><br />Place all ingredients in a wok on low heat, and slowly roast for about an hour to 90 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes or so. Everything should be soft and well-cooked, and the garlic turning brown. Place in a food processor and puree. Freeze any unused paste for up to 6 months.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-62627463135536647202009-07-12T18:23:00.000-07:002009-07-12T18:59:42.625-07:00Caper-Ranch DressingSometimes a moment of inspiration is all that's needed to make something ordinary become something special. Last night I served my chicken and dumplings to friends (<a href="http://chezcharles.blogspot.com/2009/04/chicken-dumplings-spring-greens-wblood.html">recipe here</a>), and wanted to serve a fresh salad with it. Vicki asked for ranch dressing, and as I had buttermilk in the fridge I thought, OK. But I wanted something with a little more zip - a little more tang than a normal ranch dressing. Then it came to me: capers.<br /><br />It came out great. Here you have a brand new recipe for a great summer dressing. I served this with a salad of organic red-leaf lettuce, red onion ribbons, roma tomatoes, and radish slices.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Caper-Ranch Dressing</span><br />1/3 c. mayonnaise (I use Hellman's)<br />1/3 c. + 2 T buttermilk<br />1/2 tsp. fresh minced dill weed<br />2 tsp. capers, chopped<br />pinch onion powder<br />fresh ground pepper<br />pinch of salt<br /><br />Whisk together all ingredients. Adjust salt as needed. Serve immediately, spooned over salad.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-15855488135148417202009-07-08T09:30:00.000-07:002009-07-11T20:57:20.059-07:00Turkey Sloppy JoesSometimes a good ol' fashioned Sloppy Joe is just the thing for summer. We had these with chips, pickles and lemonade. Life is sweet!<br /><br />You will notice a lot of approximations in the measurements in this recipe. This is because Sloppy Joes are all about hooking into childhood flavor memories. Everyone's "ideal SJ" is personal and slightly different. It's about that perfect balance of salt, sweet, tang, and spice. I found myself doing a lot of adjusting to get the flavors "just right". You should do the same - start with lesser amounts of the strongly-flavored ingredients, taste frequently, and adjust to your liking.<br /><br />Also, my wife eats no beef or pork, so I make them with ground turkey. You can use ground beef, of course - it's the traditional protein - just omit the cooking oil.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Turkey Sloppy Joes</span><br />(serves 3-4)<br />1/2 lb. ground turkey (I buy Jenny-O 7% fat)<br />1 T light olive oil or canola oil<br />1 small onion, diced<br />2 cloves garlic, minced<br />~1/2 c. ketchup<br />~1 tsp. prepared yellow mustard<br />~1/2 tsp. Worchestershire Sauce<br />~2 T brown sugar<br />dash soy sauce<br />2-3 dashes paprika<br />dash or two of ground celery seed<br />dash Tabasco Sauce (optional, to taste)<br />salt & freshly ground pepper to taste<br /><br />Brown the turkey in the oil over medium heat, breaking the clumps into small pieces. When the turkey is nearly done, add the onion and garlic. Continue to brown and cook over medium heat until the onions are well-browned and partially carmelized, at least 15 minutes. Add about 1/4 c. of water, and loosen all of the browned bits from the bottom and sides of the pan.<br /><br />Add all remaining ingredients except salt, and stir well. Heat until bubbly. Taste a small spoonful, and adjust flavors as necessary, adding salt if needed. I prefer a fairly sweet SJ, and added a fair amount of brown sugar. I also ended up adding a dash of cider vinegar to amp up the tang just a bit.<br /><br />Reduce heat to low and cook for 10 minutes to marry the flavors. In the mean time, toast onion buns (or whatever type of bun you prefer) under the broiler or over a grill. Serve immediately!by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2880996676550162454.post-50367680935578071362009-07-05T21:17:00.000-07:002009-07-05T21:33:00.307-07:00Grilled Salmon DijonI find this recipe to be counter-intuitive - mustard with salmon? - yet it is utterly delicious. My cousin, Jack Riebel, is the Executive Chef at the Dakota Jazz Club in Minneapolis. On a family reunion a couple years ago, he pulled together this dish to feed 35 adults in short order. It was quick, easy, and amazingly good.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Grilled Salmon Dijon</span><br />(serves 4-6)<br />2 12-16oz. salmon filets, with skin on one side, boned<br />small jar of coarse-ground mustard<br />small bunch of fresh Italian parsley<br />2 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves pulled from the stems<br />small bunch of fresh cilantro, rinsed well and leaves pulled from the stems<br />about 1/2 c. dried breadcrumbs<br />olive oil for drizzling<br />1/2 lemon<br /><br />Lay the salmon filets skin-side down on a double-thick layer of aluminum foil, crimped around the edges, or on cedar planks. Slather each filet with mustard to coat all over. Mince the herbs together and spread all over the filets, pressing into the mustard. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, and drizzle with olive oil. Let sit for 15 minutes.<br /><br />Meanwhile, heat the grill. Put the salmon on the grill, cover to hold in heat, and cook until just done in the thickest part - cooking time will vary with the thickness of the fish, heat of the grill, and pre-cooking temperature of the fish. Allow to rest for 5 minutes, then spritz with juice from the lemon and serve.<br /><br />This dish is great with roasted new potatoes (<a href="http://chezcharles.blogspot.com/2009/03/springtime-walleye-roasted-potatoes-and.html">recipe here</a>) and a salad of spring greens.by Chuck Densingerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13107716140385755466noreply@blogger.com0